My Saturday lunch at STAY by Yannick Alléno at the One&Only Royal Mirage was an afternoon that truly showcased dining as an art form. Yannick Alléno, boasting 17 Michelin stars worldwide, has two of them here at STAY. This high standard is not flaunted as a trophy but is evident in every meticulous detail.
Even before entering, you sense a shift, knowing you’re about to experience a place where excellence is a way of life. The One&Only is extraordinary, and STAY is its most refined, quietly self-assured expression.
We arrived early, with sunlight cascading over the entrance like liquid gold, and were greeted by general manager Pierre Alexis. His welcome was warm and precise, making us feel anticipated rather than just expected. Instantly, we weren’t just diners; we were part of a carefully crafted dining narrative, unfolding with elegance and respect for culinary art.
Unexpectedly, it was a tranquil afternoon. The dining room was not bustling — unusual for a restaurant of this stature. Yet, the lack of the typical Michelin buzz enhanced the intimacy, turning the experience into a private performance focused solely on our table.
Cheese Soufflé
The bread trio was a prelude to the meal: babadough as delicate as pastry, chewy tiger bread, and a Parisian-worthy baguette. The butter — salted, rich, made from the milk of 20 Breton cows — was a signature detail, more than just a condiment.
An amuse-bouche of Mara des Bois strawberries with cucumber, Isigny cream, and kombu broth offered a fresh, understated prelude, preparing the palate with subtlety.
The star dish was the steamed cheese soufflé with 24-month Comté. Its delicate texture and bold flavor captivated us, marking the highlight of the meal. It was not merely a starter; it became the benchmark for all other dishes.
The Breton blue lobster with a modern sauce pilée, kalanga, pine nuts, coconut, and a rich bisque followed. The wagyu beef mille-feuille, deeply savory, was harmonized with chanterelles and a reimagined sauce Chauron with tomato béarnaise.
Dessert was a confit apricot with caramelized brioche and almond sorbet — refined, balanced, and satisfying without excessive sweetness. Every bite was thoughtfully crafted.
Service was a lesson in anticipation. Plates seemed to arrive on cue, drinks were poured seamlessly, and each interaction was marked by skill. The light bathed the dining room, casting a golden glow over polished surfaces, creating a perfect day…
