Autumn holds a special allure.
In Dubai, it marks the time when the city breathes a sigh of relief. The sun’s harshness wanes, evenings become cooler, and the desert air carries a gentle mellowness. Meanwhile, in Bengal, autumn unfolds with its own charm, offering porcelain skies, brisk breezes, and the vibrant celebration of Durga Puja, turning Calcutta into a sprawling street festival.
For those of us far from our roots, food becomes the easiest way to reconnect. This September in Dubai, as Bengalis and those with ties to Calcutta prepare for Durga Puja, the flavors of the City of Joy play a central role in the festivities.
Azad Hind Dhaba: A Culinary Icon Arrives in Dubai
Azad Hind Dhaba, the famed eatery from Calcutta’s Ballygunge Circular Road, is now a centerpiece of Dubai’s dining scene. Known at home as a democratic hub for students, journalists, taxi drivers, and film stars, Azad Hind – named after Subhas Chandra Bose’s wartime army – has been the backdrop for countless stories.
“Kolkata’s culinary scene is rich and diverse but often overlooked globally,” says Sahil Sharma, the third-generation owner who, with his wife Suzan, brought this iconic restaurant to Dubai. “We wanted to share its deep flavors with a broader audience.”
In 2007, when I first moved to Dubai, finding Calcutta street food seemed an impossible dream. The Dubai skyline was still emerging, and the city’s food scene lacked the soul food of Kolkata. The tangy phuchka, the comforting chaos of a dhaba’s dal, or the ritual of a mutton roll were mere memories.
Now, at Azad Hind, as Calcuttans eagerly await the Durga Puja festivities, those memories have a new home. The air is alive with the sizzle of kebabs and the familiar sounds of Bangla. Sahil and Suzan are more than restaurateurs; they are memory keepers, serving a legacy on a plate.
“Azad Hind is more than a restaurant; it’s a gateway to Park Street’s vibrant evenings,” says Sugoto Sanyal, a nostalgic Calcutta resident in Dubai.
For 34-year-old Emirati Shamma Mohammed, discovering Calcutta cuisine has been a revelation. “I’d heard of Hyderabad and Mumbai, but not Kolkata,” she says. “The kathi rolls blew me away. They’ve become a family favorite.”
Their menu includes hearty dhaba-style mutton and smoky kebabs, rooted in authentic flavors. “Each dish is a tribute to Kolkata’s spirit,” says Suzan, with pride.
As autumn casts its golden hue over Jumeirah, the significance of this place deepens. For Bengalis, Durga Puja is more than a festival; it’s a nostalgic journey fueled by street food.
Azad Hind has recreated its own festive space, with Alpana motifs beneath tables and a menu featuring festival favorites like jhalmuri, phuchka, momo, and Bengali fish fry.
“It’s about capturing the spirit of a Durga Puja pandal,” Sahil explains.
From Mughal Heritage to Dubai’s Dining Scene
Azad Hind Dhaba’s emergence is part of a larger trend. Dubai now hosts other beloved Kolkata eateries. Nearby, Arsalan and Aminia serve aromatic biryanis, echoing the flavors of Kolkata’s famous kitchens. This reflects Kolkata’s essence, now part of Dubai’s multicultural landscape.
“In the early 2000s, finding authentic Kolkata cuisine in Dubai was difficult,” says Mainak Maity, a long-time resident. “Now, seeing Azad Hind, Arsalan, and Aminia here feels surreal. It’s not just food; it’s a taste of home.”
Kolkata is a city of beautiful contradictions, where diverse traditions coexist harmoniously.
So this Puja season, as Calcuttans gather in Dubai over biryani and sweets, it’s about more than taste. It’s about claiming a slice of Calcutta in the desert and maintaining the tradition of belonging everywhere.
The phantom limb of nostalgia now reaches for another egg roll.
