The runway was dimly lit, buzzing with anticipation. The only illumination came from the multitude of phone screens in the crowd. Every seat was filled, whether by early-arriving guests who bypassed the long line outside or VIPs with reserved spots akin to premium property.
Some unfortunate fashion week attendees found themselves standing tightly between rows, while others remained pressed against the doors outside, hoping for a seat that never became available. When the show commenced, a bass dropped, and electronic beats reverberated through the venue, as a solitary spotlight sliced through the dark, highlighting each emerging model.
The silhouettes were bold. Shoulders were exaggerated, necklines were high and restrictive, some pants featured cutouts down to the ankle, and silk dresses trailed behind like smoke. Each model showcased a fresh concept from the creative minds at FAD Institute of Luxury Fashion & Style Dubai, the city’s leading fashion academy. This marked the grand finale of day five at Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) SS26, held this month.
In the realm of fashion week traditions, Paris and Milan have long been dominant forces. However, Dubai presents a different narrative. The UAE’s fashion scene resonates with the themes presented by FAD talents: chaotic, diverse, and experimental.
DFW’s headliners were not European houses but designers from Mumbai, Malaysia, Beirut, and beyond. Rizman Ruzaini from Malaysia kicked off the calendar alongside Mumbai’s Krésha Bajaj, signaling Southeast Asia and India’s influence in the conversation.
Ruzaini’s brand, which gained attention when Naomi Campbell graced its DFW show two years ago, is now synonymous with red-carpet allure across Asia. Meanwhile, Bajaj is renowned for her intricately embroidered “Love Story” lehengas, bringing Indian bridal couture to the global forefront.
On day two, Bengaluru’s Fioletowy, co-founded by Samatha Chandrashekar, offered a global-fusion approach blending fashion and performance art. Meanwhile, Nicaragua’s Erick Bendaña, recently named by Forbes as one of Latin America’s most influential designers, introduced a rare Central American voice to the week. Midweek, Tara Babylon, the British-Iraqi designer gaining traction in New York, presented a performance-driven collection inspired by streetwear, club culture, and her heritage.
Though DFW is youthful compared to Paris, Milan, or New York, it is rapidly evolving into a platform for Global South designers. This season’s lineup featured labels from South Asia, the Middle East, Africa, and Latin America, offering them exposure to buyers and press who rarely encounter them in the European circuit. Dubai’s strategic location, connecting Asia, the Gulf, and Europe, is a key advantage, attracting a broader mix of talent and audiences than the older fashion capitals.
This year’s SS26 calendar includes over 30 designers from 13 countries. The Global South dominates the lineup, with names from India, Malaysia, the Philippines, Lebanon, and Nicaragua leading alongside Dubai’s native talent. Compared to last season’s 35 designers from 17 countries, the mix is more focused and deliberate, positioning Dubai as the stage where Southern voices are first heard.
No one in Dubai understands the rhythms of fashion weeks like Phillippa Kennedy, a senior PR director at Brazen MENA, a public relations and social agency specializing in luxury and lifestyle. She has participated in around 40 fashion weeks in Europe, serving in various backstage roles for major luxury houses before settling in her UAE position.
“Geographically, where Dubai is located, right in the center of the world, designers from surrounding regions should be represented,” she said. “The Arab Fashion Council’s decision to include these names is very intentional.”
Kennedy argues that Dubai’s allure isn’t solely about geography but also about financial power. “This part of Arabia, along with Southeast Asia and the subcontinent, has immense spending power, and someone needs to cater to that,” she said.
The statistics support this. Fashion was the largest luxury category in the GCC last year at $5.2 billion (Dh19 billion), slightly ahead of watches at $5.1 billion (Dh1.8 billion), according to a Chalhoub Group case study. In the UAE alone, the luxury goods market is expected to reach $4.4 billion (Dh16.1 billion) in 2025 and climb to $5.7 billion (Dh20.9 billion) by 2030, according to a Research and Markets report.
Kennedy notes that in regions like India or Kuala Lumpur, where fashion weeks are not well-established or consistent, designers seek a stage for greater exposure. For now, Dubai offers them that platform and showcase space.
However, she acknowledges that Dubai still lacks the history and heritage that anchor Parisian maisons. “If you’re a Parisian brand with an atelier in France, why would you come to Dubai to show? You’d stay where your roots are,” she said. For Kennedy, the challenge lies in Dubai’s yet-to-be-built legacy to consistently draw the biggest names. “There’s still much trial and error, both culturally and in the fashion arena.”
Aaiza Z., projects and partnerships lead for UAE Country Management at Chalhoub Group, believes there’s no better place for fashion experimentation than Dubai. “[The city] is at the heart of everything—innovation and pioneering are central,” she said. For Aaiza, fashion week is a conversation luxury retail cannot afford to ignore. “It’s an iconic moment for the city.”
“Wherever luxury meets innovation, you’ll find Chalhoub Group championing possibilities,” she added.
Aaiza also highlighted Chalhoub Group’s senior vice-president Grace Khourey’s partnership launch this year with FAD, the UAE-based fashion institute that concluded the week with its student showcase. The initiative included Benedict Blanc, GM for Aspirational Luxury, as part of the jury. This, she explained, signifies Chalhoub’s investment in nurturing the next generation of regional talent.
Aaiza also mentioned the Italian Trade Agency, a key DFW sponsor and long-time Chalhoub Group partner through its homegrown brand Level Shoes, led by Elisa Bruno. She described Level Shoes as “a success story in its own right,” reflecting how Dubai is becoming a breeding ground for established fashion economies and new designers to test the waters and form partnerships with emerging markets.
On day three, the Italian Trade Agency hosted The Italian Day in Dubai, featuring Italian designers on the runway. It wasn’t about Milan exporting its DNA but Milan aligning with the evolving conversation.
DFW isn’t just a platform for star designers like Ruzaini or Bendaña to debut their collections. What sets DFW apart from Paris or Milan is its lowered entry barriers. Smaller labels that might struggle to break through in Europe find an easier path here, gaining visibility before buyers, press, and consumers who might otherwise miss their work.
One designer watching keenly is Nadina Buturovic, a Bosnian creative based in the UAE who once worked in Paris. Her label, BNS, operates largely online and through pop-ups across the Emirates, including a collaboration with THAT Concept Store. For her, DFW represents a stage that could shine a light on independent designers who haven’t yet reached the scale of established houses but are building loyal followings in the region. BNS, she hopes, will resonate with buyers seeking timeless, elegant, feminine pieces made primarily from natural fabrics. “You can see it in the shows,” Buturovic said about DFW’s diversity. “At the last DFW I attended, designers from the Philippines, Thailand, and Sri Lanka were present.” This openness to brands from all over leads Buturovic to believe there’s more opportunity to spotlight smaller brands like hers.
Competitive Space
However, the UAE fashion market is highly competitive and challenging, Buturovic explained. “I do believe it’s more open compared to Europe.” After a year or two of building her brand and network, she hopes to debut a summer collection on the DFW catwalk.
Similarly, Fatima AlRemeithi, a creative and cultural professional in Abu Dhabi’s fashion scene, has attended three DFWs. As a professional in public relations, design, and modeling, she has worn many hats as both an attendee and an employee working in and around fashion week. She primarily works for TribeWNos, a production studio in Abu Dhabi. She also co-launched an Emirati-led streetwear brand called free minds universe. “I really want to appreciate and express the fact that Dubai Fashion Week is, I think, a very accessible event space,” AlRemeithi said.
“If you are in the fashion community and you’ve done even a little to put yourself out there—whether you’re a designer, a model, an influencer, a content creator—I’ve seen creatives across the board able to come and enjoy the shows,” she explained. She values the opportunity to connect with like-minded individuals in the UAE’s fashion community.
For AlRemeithi, a significant part of the discussion is promoting diverse professionals in the field. “I love that we’re celebrating our Indian designers because the South Asian community is such a big part of this cosmopolitan city and country,” she said.
AlRemeithi notes that the runway reflects this diversity, with differences celebrated in the models. “Colorism isn’t much of an issue here,” she said. “I also saw many plus-sized and mid-sized models on the runway.”
With experience behind the scenes at both Dubai and New York fashion weeks, she found the UAE experience more cosmopolitan. “You have a blend of Western and Eastern values here,” AlRemeithi said. Located at the world’s epicenter, the fashion and designer conversations at DFW are more reflective of the global community present regionally. “In New York, there’s still—in terms of designers—a commitment to big labels and big names.” In Dubai, there’s less of that, AlRemeithi explained.
The runway isn’t just a spectacle for up-and-coming designers; it’s also a chance for regional retailers to observe current fashion trends. Emily Abraham, founder of Knightsbridge and Dubai-based pre-loved designer boutique Love Luxury, attends DFW each season. “It’s important to stay updated with industry trends, both on and off the catwalks, and I like to support local designers, too,” Abraham said. “Trends influence what consumers seek when they visit us. Demand for colors and shapes changes seasonally,” she added, explaining the fashion scene’s impact on her boutique’s purchasing and consumer behavior.
Everyone Benefits
Kennedy agrees. Fashion week, and events in the tightly-knit UAE fashion market, create opportunities not just for retailers to track trends and adjust inventory but also for smaller and local designers to secure business deals. A first-time showcasing designer might capture the attention of a local luxury boutique or a bigger retailer like Bloomingdale’s or THAT Concept Store to gain shelf space. Fashion is business, Kennedy noted.
“As DFW gains more credibility, it would be interesting to see if some of the big fashion houses considered showing their Arab collections there,” Kennedy said, referencing luxury houses like Prada that sell unique collections to Gulf buyers. Looking forward, Dubai needs to establish itself as an influential voice and create an “invented heritage,” she explained. That, in turn, will draw the global fashion world towards it. However, it also needs to celebrate its geographic uniqueness, Kennedy said.
Despite everything, the Arab Fashion Council only started formally organizing events in 2023, although it was founded in 2015. “It’s like a baby,” Kennedy said—a baby with a silver spoon.
“As the crème de la crème visits the city more frequently, diversity becomes a given,” Aaiza said, referring to the wealth flowing into the UAE from around the world. As DFW establishes itself more in the global fashion world, it will undoubtedly become a regional hub for the business of fashion.
